
Trekking duration: 22 days
Dolpa is the most remote place situated in the Trans Himalayan region of Mid -West Nepal. It has scattered fascination villages & is still the land of mystery & peace. The region about in a host of snow peak including seventh highest peak in the World Dhaulagiri 8167m.
DAY 01: Arrive in Kathmandu and check into the Hotel.
DAY 02: We take the flight to Nepalgunj in the far west of Nepal. This one-hour flight is quite remarkable as it is traverses the entire length of the Nepal Himalayan west of Kathmandu, with superb views of Langtang, Manaslu, and Annapurnas and Dhaulagiri and finally Dolpo, Nepalgunj is closed to the Indian border, and quite warm in comparison with Kathmandu. We check into the Hotel, fifteen minutes drive from the airport.
DAY 03: We have to be at the airport early as we take the first flight to Jumla, which takes only half an hour at thee campsite by the airstrip we meet our porters and kitchen crew who have walked in from the road head ten days early. The rest day gives the porters a chance to get sorted out for the start of the following day.
DAY
04: The start of the trek. The usual start to the day is
bed tea at 6.00am and away by 8.30am. The first day is always a
bit slow as the porters get into the swing of things, but a rhythm
soon develops. Following the path heading south east from Jumla,
on thee left (true right side of the river Tila, a bridge is reached
after an hour and a half to Garjankot (lunch). A slightly longer
walk in the afternoon passes a few houses and an Irrigation channel
on the right. From which there is a lovely view across the rolling
hills behind. The camp is 200m below at a sheep from known as Gothi
Chaur (2800m).
DAY
05: The trail drops down from the farm for half an hour
to follow the banks of a tributary of the Tila River which is crossed
by a small bridge to the main river and another bridge to its left
bank. Alpine forests and clear streams are the order of the day
and two hours after leaving the camp you reach the village of Munigaon
where there is a police check post. The main trail continues southeast
to Jajarkot and the Bheri River.
Our route turns to the east by the check post staying on the left
side of the river instead of crossing the bridge. After 20 minutes
another bridge is reached which is crossed and the path followed
to a lunch stop 20 minutes further. The scenery is very reminiscent
of North America and is ideally suited to the Himalayan Griffin,
which can be seen in large numbers soaring high above the trees.
After lunch, a short afternoon's walk leads to the village of Naphukhona
with a large Tibetan Choten. Our campsite is 10 minute further on
below the Gompa at Chorteng. (3100m).
DAY 06: Following the river through
some of the most superb forest so far encountered, lunch is taken
after only two hours by the start off the climb to the Maure La
(3927m). The climb from the lunch spot takes around 45 minutes and
is rewarded with some very fine views of the Bheri River Valley
and the Peaks of Ghyuthumba and Matathumba, the first peaks to be
climbed in Dolpo in1953 by Dr. Herbert Tichy. In the distance a
hundred
Miles away, the huge bulk of Api is the dominating peak to the west.
The excursion to the cairn at the top of the hill above the pass
is well worth it for a superb view of the Dhaulagiri Massif and
Annapurna II clearing in the forest (3100m).
DAY 07: An extremely enjoyable walks,
at first through more forest to a corner, which yields the first
view of the Kagmara Lekh and the Bheri River itself. The path can
be seen contouring across the hillside through the village of Chaurkot,
after which it descends to a stream and climbs again to another
saddle.
Lunch is taken by the nest stream. The village off Rimi and Kaigaon
are soon clearly visible and the path drops down through Rimi, which
is quite dirty, to the more picturesque Kaigaon stay on the left
side of the river, as the campsite is 20 minutes further on below
the village off Hurikot (2650m). A monastery is being built just
above the campsite and it is normal for groups to give a donation.
DAY 08: Follow the stream to the village, which is very Tibetan in character. The path climbs gradually staying high above the Garpung Khola for two hours until it reaches thee Jagdula Khola and a lunch stop at the army post on the opposite side (2950m). A steep climb for half an hour leads to a clearing with an excellent view of Kagmara V.Continue along the left bank to camp by a bridge crossing the Garpung Khola.
DAY 09: A short morning's walk and a rest afternoon. Cross the bridge and follow the river for two hours to reach a fine vantage point of the route ahead, including the campsite, which is an hour further. The first night at 4000 meters.
DAY 10: A big day crossing the Kagmara La (5100m). Taking a packed lunch, follow the Right Bank off the river for a short way until the path becomes slightly obscure below a steep climb. Reaching the top of this, the angle eases off slightly and the pass is no more than an hour and a half away. The pass is marked in the traditional Tibetan way with hundreds of prayer flags, and the view is quite stunning. The short climb to the summit of Kagmara RI (5370m) takes no more than half an hour, but the extra view is well worth it. The mountains of Tibet and Mount Everest in the distance form just part of this impressive panorama, which is dominated by the Dhaulagiri massif and the Annapurnas. The view to the south and west of the Kagmara Lekh and the Kanjiroba Himal is equally impressive. All in all a very special spot. There is no need to leave in a hurry, as the campsite is a mere hour below the pass on a flat grassy clearing by the river (3450m).
DAY 11: On our 1990 reconnaissance trip, Himalayan blue sheep and wild fox ware seen from the camp as well s numerous birds of pray. A big descent, over 1200 meters, leads through an idyllic valley to the village of Pungmo. Camp is made by the Choten the entrance to the village.
DAY 12: A rest day if you wish, but
the spare day is to give everyone the chance to visit the important
Gompa above Pungmo. There are in fact two Gompas as we have entered
a region where both 'Bon' and 'traditional' Buddhism are practiced.
Chotens become very confusing s one dictates an anti- clockwise
passing whilst the other clockwise.
However, the lams of both Gompas are willing to show you around
for a small donation. To reach them, look out for a wooden bridge
below the village. Cross this to the opposite bank of the river
and follow the path up through the pine forest past a Choten. The
path becomes quite exposed as it cuts across a cliff to reach the
sanctuary.
DAY 13: Today's destination is the
village of Ringmo by the beautiful Phuksumdo Tal (lake). Keeping
to the left side of the river, descend for one hour to a military
camp (31d50m) at the junction of the Pungmo and Phuksumdo Rivers.
Turns left immediately after the camp and follow a delightful path
by the Phuksumdo River to a grassy clearing for lunch.
The afternoon's walk up to Ringmo is very rewarding as huge rock
walls guard the upper valley and it is not until some prayer flags
are reached at 3800m that the lake can be seen. Equally impressive
is the huge waterfall falling down from the Phuksumdo River. From
the prayer flags, a pleasant half an hour's walk leads to the village
of Ringmo and camp is made on the opposite side of the village (3700m).
Crossing the bridge in the village and turn left to reach the lake.
DAY 14: A rest day in Ringmo camped by the beautiful clear waters of Ringmo Lake. The nearby monastery is worth a visit.
DAY
15: The final part of the trek sets out to explore the
hidden valley of Tarap, one of the last bastions of Tibetan culture
in Nepal. An easy day involving a couple of hours walks in the morning
to a Yak grazing pasture by the Manduwa Khola. The path skirts along
lodges hacked out of cliffs for the Yak caravans from Dolpo. The
views down the Suli Gad and across to the Kagmara Lekh are particularly
impressive. The campsite is in a lovely spot (3900m) below Kang
Taiga (5916m).
DAY 16: Today is a very strenuous
day crossing thee Basic Bhanjyang (Bagar La) (5200m). It is also
one of the most fascinations of the trek as we cross the watershed
of the main Himalayan onto the dry Tibetan plateaus. Following the
river to begin with, the path turns north up the first obvious side
valley and climbs steeply to the pass, which marked by a choten
and the usual prayer flags.
The views to the east and north are one of complete contrast to
those of the previous two weeks trekking. The mountain is orange
and brown stretching out into Tibet to the north. The pass is often
windy and the descent is party rapid to the river below and our
camp (4650m). The road to shey and saldang is clearly etched out
of the landscape by the tracks of thousands of Yaks that have made
the journey south over the centuries the lifeline of Dolpo. At this
point we are only three hours from the village of Shey, but access
is not permitted.
DAY 17: The Tarap Valley is today's destination and despite the climb to the Numla La (5350m), the walk into this beautiful and wild Tibetan landscape is one of the highlights of the trek. A four to five hour climb leads to the pass and the view is indeed stunning. Dhaulagiri I am the prominent feature, with the rolling Tibetan hills and the Kanjiroba Himal to the west equally impressive. For an excellent 3600 panorama, climb the small peak to the left Of the pass. The path descends gradually into the Tarap Valley. In two to three hours the Champa Gompa is passed on the left and camp is made a little further down the valley in the first village (4300m).
DAY 18: A long day. Due to the opens of the Tarap Valley, the sun hits the tent early, giving a spring feel to the morning. The mornings walk passes through the villages off Clumaga and Kakar, both extremely interesting with many Choten, again both Bun-Po (the ancient pre-Buddhistic religion) and Choba (orthodox Buddhist). There are two Gompas in Dho, Guru Bumba (Chob) and above the village Scipcha Gompa (Bon). Leaving Dho (a name given to the last village but actually meaning the upper collection of villages), the Tarap Khola is followed for two hours, at first on its left bank, to a bridge where lunch is taken. This is the last flat ground for three to four hours as the valley becomes narrow with deep goes crossed by innumerable small bridges. However, it is an extremely well made path, one of the finest gorge paths in the Himalayan, offering an entertaining afternoon's walk. A small campsite by a large campsite by a big cave.
DAY 19: The path through the gorge continues to impress, switching from the riverbank to way up the cliff side on some amazing constructions! After a long morning's walk (look out for Musk Deer), a large clearing by the river is reached. This is Lahini and marks the end of the gorge. The path Kanigaon (2700m) where we camp.
DAY 20: From the check post, head east for a few hundred yards to a well mad bridge which is crossed to the left bank of the Barbung Khola, into which the Trap Khola now flows. This river is followed for three hours to the village of Tarakot where we stop. Rest afternoon.
DAY 21: Another easy day, continuing along the Barbung Khola through a beautiful alpine valley to the Hindu village of Dunai. Four hours walking. Camp by the new 'Blue Sheep lodge'.
DAY 22: The final day's walk continues along the river to a teashop by the side of the path (One and a half hours), which marks the start of the climb to the Juphal airstrip. The path climbs steadily, passing through the village of Juphal to the airstrip. Camp is made outside the RNAC office.
DAY 23: We take the flight to Nepalgunj, for an afternoon's rest before flying on to Kathmandu the following day. The views from the lake of the Annapurnas are famous throughout Nepal.
DAY 24: Free day in Kathmandu.
DAY 25: final Departures.
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