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Mount Shishapangma is one of the very beautiful and holy mountains of China’s autonomous regions of Tibet, situated at an altitude of 8027 meters above the sea level. Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978 and then this mountain became fully known to the world. It is the youngest mountain among the 14 peaks situated above the height of 8000m. Till to date many climbers have succeeded to reach its tip.
Route: Reaching Mount Shishapangma is much easier with the professional arrangements of Monterosa Treks and Expedition. The North West normal route to mount Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be kept on the steeper or crevassed sections. Following our acclimatization at Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000m) for final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gears from Base camp to ABC at 5,400m. While progressing three further camps will be placed.
Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours hike we reach camp 2 passing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed. Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours hike we reach camp 3 following steep ascent leading to very smooth ground below the northwest ridge.
Camp 3 - 7,400m – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to step on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of the physical fitness, favorable condition of the weather determines our further expedition. Sometimes few more days may require for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climbers accomplish the mountaineering early than the scheduled period they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.
Mount Cho Oyu was conquered by Austrians in 1954 for the first time and The Indian and German team consequently climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till today many excursion teams have successfully reached on its summit. Tibet side is considered as the easy technique climbing route by Most of the mount Cho Oyu expedition teams. Since 1998, our company "Monterosa Treks and Expedition" is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side.
Expedition details; Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and they will transfer you to hotel. Introduction section will be there on next day with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.
After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway. The Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation meet us there. The expedition gears go by truck but the members are taken by Land cruiser 4wd or by comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m). Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where and spend two nights refreshing. Then we drive to Base camp 5000m along the rough way with jerking & bouncing experience through grassy plain leading up to the Everest base camp, also called Chinese base camp, where we set up our camp t and stay two nights or more, depending on the feeling of our members. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp though temporary is comfortable with our Nepali cook and dining tent. ABC, in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m, surrounded by celestial peaks is just two days walk from there. High Pass is also there called Nangpa La pass nearby which, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.
Beautiful view of mount Cho Oyu is seen from ABC which is a main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services in their own. We have to walk on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier from ABC. Actual mountaineering begins from Camp 1 at 6400m. The ridge is easy enough, then it broadens out and you should climb sequential huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one-one rope is used for ascent-descent. Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m. You can carefully estimate where to put the rope. If you think you can then you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where another set of ropes should be set prior to our summit ascent.
Finally, summit trek begins from camp 3 in early morning. Above the rocky belts, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the apex of this ridge the terrain is direct although it is a long haul to the summit plateau. Mount Everest 8848m, mount Lhotse 8501m, mount Nuptse 7855m, mount Chamlang 7319m, mount Ama Dablam 6812m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south can be seen amazingly from this point. Mount Melungtse and Mount Gauri Sankhar are to the west and Tibet area is to the north. From Summit, you can normally descend to Camp 2 and continue to the Advance Base Camp.
28 Aug. 2017 Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
29 Aug. 2017 Day 02: Prepare expedition and apply Tibet visa
30 Aug. 2017 Day 03: Prepare expedition & expedition briefing
31 Aug. 2017 Day 04: Drive Kodari and Zhangmu 2300m.-hotel
01 Sept. 2017 Day 05: Drive Zhangmu to Nyalam 3750m.-hotel
02 Sept. 2017 Day 06: Acclimation & day hiking in uphill – hotel
03 Sept. 2017 Day 07: Drive Nyalam-Shishapangma BC- camp
04 Sept. 2017 Day 08: Prepare load for yak advance BC–camp
05 Sept. 2017 Day 09: Shishapangma BC- middle camp –camp
06 Sept. 2017 Day 10: Middle to advance B.C. 5400m. – camp
06 - 26 Sept. 2017 Day 11-31: Climb Mt. Shishapangma 8027m.
27 Sept. 2017 Day 32: ABC – Shishapangma base camp - camp
28 Sept. 2017 Day 33: Drive base camp to Tingri 4340m. – hotel
29 Sept. 2017 Day 34: Drive to Cho Oyu base camp 5000m.-camp
30 Sept. 2017 Day 35: Cho Oyu base camp to Advance BC- camp
01- 11 Oct. 2017 Day 36 - 46 Climbing Mount Cho Oyu 8201m.
12 Oct. 2017 Day 47: From advance B.C. to Cho Oyu base camp
13 Oct. 2017 Day 48: Drive from Cho Oyu B.C to Zhangmu – hotel
14 Oct. 2017 Day 49: Drive from Zhangmu to Kathmandu - hotel
15 Oct. 2017 Day 50: Transfer hotel to airport for final departure
Full board guide up to TOP (Shishapangma & Cho Oyu expedition)
Per person USD 22,000 for guided full board up to top)
Extra Service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 350 (re-fill)
Mask and regulator: USD 500 (re-use)
Satellite phone permit: USD 1500 per set
Film Permit: USD 20,000 (small movie camera free)