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Mount Shishapangma, located in the China’s autonomous region of Tibet is the youngest mountain among 8000 meters above 14 peaks in the world with the height of 8012 meters above the sea level. It is regarded as the holy mountain by Tibetan people. Only few people in the world were known to this mountain before the Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978. Till today many expedition teams have successfully reach this summit.
Route: The normal North-West route to Mount Shishapangma takes us up to easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be fixed and placed on the steeper or crevassed sections. Acclimatizing in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will arrive at the base camp (5000mfor the final preparations to move ahead. Yaks transport our expedition equipments from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. There will be three camps placed in the route.
Camp 1 – 6,730m – After 6-7 hours trek, we reach to camp 2 through passing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in crevassed path.
Camp 2 – 7,045m – After 5-6 hours walk, we reach to camp 3 via steep ascent leading to very soft ground below the northwest ridge.
Camp 3 – 7,400m – From Camp 3, around 9-12 hours walk takes us to the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers’ progress and their physical fitness, favorable condition of the weather determines our journey ahead. Few more days may require for acclimatization at different places. And, if the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.
Austrians first climbs the sixth highest peak of the world, Mount Cho Oyu in 1954. Then Indian and German team also conquered consequently in 1958 and 1964. Till today many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. Most of the mount Cho Oyu expedition teams prefer to climb from Tibet side due it’s the easy technique-climbing route. Since 1998, our company “Monterosa Treks and Expedition” is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side.
Meeting and climbing information; Expedition begins after your arrival to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and transfer you to hotel. Next day, we make orientation section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we prepare your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition. Completing Shishapangma expedition, ABC to walk down Shishapangma Base camp, next day you will be driven to Tingri and Cho Oyu Base camp. We set up our camp at Cho Oyu base camp and stay two nights or more as per our member’s interest. We also prepare schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two days trek towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins. Advanced Base Camp is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m, surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La pass nearby which, is an old yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet, which is still in use.
From ABC, superb view of Mount Cho Oyu can be seen. This is the main base camp where we spent majority of our time planning for our further expedition. Every person gets single-single tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services at their own. From ABC it is several hours of difficult trekking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to beginning of mountaineering properly. Camp 1 is either situated more or less on the ridge at 6400m from where the actual mountaineering initiates. The ridge is now gentle for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require rope fixing up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is requiring for ascent and one for descent. Even the crevassed route does not create problem ahead.
You should carefully assess where to put rope as Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m. Depending upon your physical fitness and environmental condition you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent. Finally, in early in the morning you will start from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, as per your condition, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau. The panorama of mountains including Mount Everest 8848m, mount Lhotse 8501m, mount Nuptse 7855m, mount Chamlang 7319m, mount Ama Dablam 6812m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south is exclusively beautiful. To the west, there are the mount Melungtse and mount Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north, there is entire Tibet area. One can normally descend to camp 2 from summit and continue down to the ABC.
11 April 2017 Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
12 April 2017 Day 02: Prepare expedition and apply Tibet visa
13 April 2017 Day 03: Prepare expedition, expedition-briefing-hotel
14 April 2017 Day 04: Drive to Kodari & Zhangmu 2300m.– hotel
15 April 2017 Day 05: Drive Zhangmu to Nyalam 3750meter -hotel
16 April 2017 Day 06: Acclimatization, day hiking up hills – hotel
17 April 2017 Day 07: Drive to Shishapangma base camp –camp
18 April 2017 Day 08: Prepare load for yak advance B.C.- camp
19 April 2017 Day 09: Trek Shishapnamgma BC - middle - camp
20 April 2017 Day 10: Trek middle camp to advance B.C.- camp
21 April - 07 May 2017 Day 11 - 31: Climbg Shishapangma 8027m.
08 May 2017 Day 32: Advance base camp - Shishapangma B.C.
09 May 2017 Day 33: Drive Shishapngma B.C. to Tingri - hotel
10 May 2017 Day 34: Drive Tingri to Cho Oyu B.C. 5000m. - camp
11 May 2017 Day 35: Cho Oyu base camp to advance base camp
12 – 22 May 2017 Day 36 - 46 Climbing Mount Cho Oyu 8201m.
23 May 2017 Day 47: advance base camp to Cho Oyu B.C. - camp
24 May 2017 Day 48: Drive Cho Oyu base camp to Zhangmu - hotel
25 May 2017 Day 49: Drive Nepal Tibet boarder- Kathmandu –hotel
26 May 2017 Day 50: Transfer to airport for final departure
Full board guide up to TOP (Shishapangma & Cho Oyu expedition)
Per person USD 22,000 for guided full board up to top)
Extra Service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 350 (re-fill)
Mask & Regulator: USD 500 (re-use)
Satellite phone permit: USD 1500 per set
Film Permit: USD 20,000 (small movie camera free)