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Mount Lhakpa Ri 7043m. (Xang Dong Feng) Expedition spring 2018

Fixed Departure
02 September 2018

Mount Lhakpa Ri is another emerging expedition mission in Tibet; and many climbers are attracted towards this mountain making their ascent through Tibet side. It divides the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glaciers. It is very close to Mount Everest and one feels as if one has successfully climbed Mount Everest itself, the moment he steps atop this mountain.

It was first climbed by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest reconnaissance in 1921, and he had seen its North Col.
Bill Tilman had made the second ascent to this mountain during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936. The Third ascent was again made by a French Everest Summiteer, Michelle Pelle in 1988. The present expedition teams are also using the same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in the past.

The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base Camp (Lhakpa RI Base camp 5200m). After that you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. After this base camp, you should start your expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Then you have to take a night’s rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m.

After this point, you may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this you should take a couple of day’s rest there. After that climbing up ahead you reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where fantastic views of Makalu & Kanchanjunga are seen. Then you get a good look of your route up to the Lhakpa Ri.

From ABC, start early in the morning to cross the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach the very foot of the slope, leading you to the North ridge of the Summit, the routes are 20 –30 degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. You have use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other side you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From the Lhakpa Ri, a very beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen.

After reaching the summits, on your way back you can choose a different route to get down via Lhasa the capital of old city of Tibet. This new route may give you another enthusiastic and charming experience.

Mount Lhakpa Ri Expedition Entry/Exit Zhangmu
02 September 2018

Way to Lhakpa RiItinerary:

02 Sept. 2018 Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
03 Sept. 2018 Day 02: Prepare Expedition and apply Tibet visa
04 Sept. 2018 Day 03: Prepare expedition & expedition briefing
05 Sept. 2018 Day 04: Drive to Kodari - Zhangmu 2300m.-hotel
06 Sept. 2018 Day 05: Drive Zhangmu to Nyalam 3750m.- hotel
07 Sept. 2018 Day 06: Acclimatization & day hiking uphill - hotel  
08 Sept. 2018 Day 07: Drive Nyalam to Tingri 4340meter- hotel
09 Sept. 2018 Day 08: Acclimatization & day hiking uphill - hotel 
10 Sept. 2018 Day 09: Drive Tingri- Lhakpa Ri base camp- camp
11 Sept. 2018 Day 10: Acclimatization in Lhakpa Ri B.C. – camp
12 Sept. 2018 Day 11: Trek Lhakpa Ri B.C.- middle camp- camp
13 Sept. 2018 Day 12: Middle camp –advance base camp- camp
14 - 28 Sept. 2018 Day 12-26: Climb period of Lhakpa Ri 7043m.
29 Sept. 2018 Day 27: for mAdvance base camp - BC– camp
30 Sept. 2018 Day 28: Drive from base camp- Zhangmu- hotel  
o1 Oct. 2018 Day 29: Drive from Kodari to Kathmandu then hotel
01 Oct. 2018 Day 30: Transfer hotel to airport for final departure

Cost: (Minimum 4 person or more)

Basic package per person USD 13,500
Climbing guide, per guide USD 5500 (If required)

Personal Bio Data Tibet Visa Form 1 Tibet Visa Form 2

Cost Includes

  • Lhakpa Ri Base camp4 nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Nepali Staff : Cook, Kitchen boy, Tibetan cook helper boy
  • Advance base camp 1 tent -1 climber (north face / similar)
  • Dining, toilet tent, shower tent table, chair and equipments
  • Tibet visa, travel permit for expedition climber, Nepali staff
  • Hotel; Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri, Shigatse, Gyantse, Lhasa
  • Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri, place breakfast / lunch / dinner
  • Per person 30kg load carry by Yak from base camp to ABC
  • Per person 20kg load carry by Yak from ABC to base camp
  • Transfer Kathmandu-Nepal Tibet boarder Nepali tourist bus
  • Zhangmu, base camp & Lhasa transfer  provide by the jeep 
  • ABC Food, expedition equipment, Nepal staff carry by truck
  • Solar panel for charging batteries, lights advance base camp
  • Climbing permit - mountain Lhakpa Ri 7043meters in Tibet
  • Liaison officer, Interpreter for Lhakpa Ri expedition CTMA
  • Life, medical, insurance professional Nepali expedition staff
  • Satellite phone (pay call) pay minute system, call world wide
  • Extra load of Lhakpa Ri expedition & pay all climber sharing
  • Welcome dinner with Nepali song and dance in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • Lhakpa Ri Base CampEntry visa & re-entry visa for Nepal
  • Bar, beverage bills, personal expenses
  • Extra yak USD 200, carry load 40kg
  • Tips for ABC staff , any extra expense
  • Medicine and first aid expense, rescue
  • Climbing food, gas, fuel for expedition
  • Fixed rope and charges for expedition

Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 350 (re-fill)
Mask and Regulator: USD 500 (re-use)
Satellite phone permit: USD 1500 per set

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