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Mount Shishapangm (8027m) is one of the very beautiful and holy mountains of China, which lies in the autonomous region called the Tibet. Only a very few people recognized mount Shishapangma before the Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978. It is the youngest mountain among the 14 peaks situated above the height of 8000m. Till to date many climbers have successfully step on its summit
Route: The North West normal route to mount Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be kept on the steeper or crevassed sections. Refreshing ourselves in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will move to base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks transport our expedition gear from Base camp, to ABC at 5,400m. There will be three further camps en-route.
Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours trekking we reach to camp 2 crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of cleft
Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours we reach camp 3 following steep ascent leading to very smooth ground below the northwest ridge.
Camp 3 - 7,400m – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to step on the summit. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress, their physical condition, environmental condition determines our further expedition. Sometimes few more days are also required for acclimatization at different places but if the climber succeeds the mountaineering early than the scheduled term they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time.
Cho Oyu means “Turquoise Goddess” in Tibetan Language. Mount Cho Oyu is the sixth highest peak of the world which was climbed by Austrian for the first time in 1954 followed by The Indian and German team in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. Most of the mount Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route. Since 1998, our company "Monterosa Treks and Expedition", located in Thamel Kathmandu is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side.
Meeting and climbing information; Expedition begins after your arrival to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Monterosa Treks & Expedition in the airport and they take you to hotel. Next day, we organize introduction program with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa permits and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.
After Shishapangma expedition, ABC to walk down Shishapangma Base camp, next day drive to Tingri and Cho Oyu Base camp. Our camp is set up at Cho Oyu base camp and we stay there for two or more nights as per our member’s choice. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary camp with Nepali cook and dining tent providing us a cheerful experience. Now the two-day walk towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins from here. ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m, surrounded by beatific peaks. There is also the High pass called Nangpa La pass nearby which is an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet.
From ABC, we can see the brilliant scene of mount Cho Oyu. This is the main base camp where we stay for the longer duration to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board only up to ABC after which climbers should manage all services by themselves.
Camp 1 is either situated more or less on the ridge at 6400m and the actual mountaineering begins from here. The ridge is now quite easy to climb. It broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope coordinating with other members on the mountain. Normally one-one rope is used for ascent-descent. Though cleft route, it does not create problem while moving on.
Camp 2 is on the bend of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully estimate where to put the rope. Depending on you conditions and fitness and environmental condition you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent should be fixed. Finally, you begin to trek for final summit from camp 3 early in the morning. The slopes above the rock bands are erected and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is direct although it is a long haul to the summit plateau. Mount Everest 8848m, mount Lhotse 8501m, mount Nuptse 7855m, mount Chamlang 7319m, mount Ama Dablam 6812m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south are easily visible from here and it’s really amazing. It’s absolutely beautiful. To the west, there are the mount Melungtse and mount Gauri Sankar massifs and Tibet area is to the north. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the Advance base camp.
24 August 2017 Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
25 August 2017 Day 02: Kathmandu & Prepare expedition
26 August 2017 Day 03: Katmandu
27 August 2017 Day 04: Drive Kodari – Zhangmu – hotel
28 August 2017 Day 05: Drive to Nyalam – hotel
29 August 2017 Day 06: Drive to Base camp – hotel
30 August 2017 Day 07: Prepare for Advance base camp – hotel
31 August 2017 Day 08: Trekking to Middle camp – hotel
01 September 2017 Day 09: Trekking to advance Base camp – hotel
02 - 17 September 2017 Day 10-25: Climbing Peried of Shishapangma 8027m.
18 September 2017 Day 26: ABC - Chinese base camp – camping
19 September 2017 Day 27: Drive to Tingri – hotel
20 September 2017 Day 28: Drive to Base camp – camping
21 September 2017 Day 29: Base camp to ABC – camping
22 September - 05 October 2017 Day 30-43 Climbing Peried of Cho Oyu Expedition
06 October 2017 Day 44: ABC to Base camp – camping
07 October 2017 Day 45: Base camp to Zhangmu – hotel
08 October 2017 Day 46: Drive to Kathmandu – hotel
09 October 2017 Day 47: Kathmandu – hotel
10 October 2017 Day 48: Final departure
full board up to TOP (Shishapangma and Cho Oyu expedition)
Per Person USD 25,000 (minimum 2 Person for guided full board up to top)
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 350
Mask & Regular: USD 500
Permit Satellite phone: USD 1000 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit: USD 20,000 (Small Portable movie camera is free) each mountain