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Very few people were known to Mount Shishapangma before the Chinese opened Tibet to the western summiteers in 1978. It is one of the very lovely and holy mountains lying in China’s autonomous region of Tibet. It is the youngest mountain among the 14 peaks situated above the height of 8000m. Till to date many climbers have successfully conquered the peak.
Route to Mount Shishapangma; The North West normal route to Mount Shishapangma takes us to easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. On the steeper or crevassed section, the necessary lines are kept. Acclimatizing at Zhangmu and Nyalam for few days we move ahead to the base camp (5000m) and prepare for further expedition. All our expedition gears are carried by Yaks from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.
Camp 1 to (6,730m) – Walking for 6-7 hours, we reach camp 2 crossing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the places of crevassed.
Camp 2 to (7,045m) – After 5-6 hours of trek we reach camp 3 via ascending steep leading to very smooth ground below the northwest ridge.
Camp 3 to (7,400m) – From Camp 3, it takes 9-12 hours to step on the summit. Climber’s physical fitness, environmental condition determines our further climbing while sometimes the extra additional days may require for acclimatization at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climbers complete the mountaineering early than the scheduled tenure they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well.
Austrian first climbs mount Cho Oyu in 1954 followed by The Indian and German team in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully step on its summit. Expedition from Tibet side is the easiest way to reach on the summit. That’s why it has even become the climber’s choice route. Monterosa Treks and Expedition, located in Thamel, Kathmandu has been conducting the expedition from Tibet side since 1998.
Meeting and climbing information; As soon as you land on Tribhuvan International Airport, staffs of Monterosa Treks and Expedition welcome you at Airport and take you to hotel. We organize Orientation program on the very next day with all our crew members and the tourists. After this we manage all your Tibet Visa permits and other necessary documents for the expedition. Staying 3 days at Nepal, you will be driven to the Friendship Bridge where the Chinese liaison officer and transport will be waiting for us. Our entire expedition gears are taken by truck while the members will be driven by Land Cruiser 4wd or comfortable coach.
After Shishapangma expedition, walking to ABC and walk down Shishapangma Base camp and on the next day drive to Tingri and Cho Oyu Base camp. Our camp is set at Cho Oyu base camp and we stay here for two or more nights as per our member’s choice. Yaks schedules are prepared by that time. With our Nepali cook and dining tent base camp is joyful though it is temporary. Advance base camp is at the walking distance of 2 days from here as it is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m, surrounded by celestial peaks. High pass called Nangpa La pass is also there nearby which is an old yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet which is still in use.
Superb view of Mount Cho Oyu can be seen from ABC. ABC is the main base camp where we spent majority of our time waiting for the favorable time for expedition. Single tent is provided to each individual. Monterosa will fully serve you up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all the services at their own. It is several hour difficult walk from ABC on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the beginning of the mountaineering properly. At 6400m camp 1 is situated from where the actual mountaineering begins. The ridge is now easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new coordinating with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascending and one for descending. The route is crevassed here but normally these does not creates any problem.
After this, Camp 2 is set up on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m. You should carefully assess where to put the rope here. If you are fit enough you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps and you should fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent here. Finally, early in the morning expedition for summit begins from camp 3. The slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix above the rock bands, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau. The exclusive panorama of surrounding including the mesmerizing view of Mount Everest 8848m, mount Lhotse 8501m, mount Nuptse 7855m, mount Chamlang 7319m, mount Ama Dablam 6812m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south entice our climbers with delightful mind and heart. Mount Melungtse and mount Gauri Sankhar is to the west whereas a Tibet area is to the north from here. You can normally descend to camp 3 and move down to ABC.
April 2017 Day 02: Prepare expedition and apply Tibet visa
13 April 2017 Day 03: Prepare expedition, expedition-briefing-hotel
14 April 2017 Day 04: Drive to Kodari & Zhangmu 2300m.– hotel
15 April 2017 Day 05: Drive Zhangmu to Nyalam 3750meter -hotel
16 April 2017 Day 06: Acclimatization, day hiking up hills – hotel
17 April 2017 Day 07: Drive to Shishapangma base camp –camp
18 April 2017 Day 08: Prepare load for yak advance B.C.- camp
19 April 2017 Day 09: Trek Shishapnamgma BC - middle - camp
20 April 2017 Day 10: Trek middle camp to advance B.C.- camp
21 April - 07 May 2017 Day 11 - 31: Climbg Shishapangma 8027m.
08 May 2017 Day 32: Advance base camp - Shishapangma B.C.
09 May 2017 Day 33: Drive Shishapngma B.C. to Tingri - hotel
10 May 2017 Day 34: Drive Tingri to Cho Oyu B.C. 5000m. - camp
11 May 2017 Day 35: Cho Oyu base camp to advance base camp
12 – 22 May 2017 Day 36 - 46 Climbing Mount Cho Oyu 8201m.
23 May 2017 Day 47: advance base camp to Cho Oyu B.C. - camp
24 May 2017 Day 48: Drive Cho Oyu base camp to Zhangmu - hotel
25 May 2017 Day 49: Drive Nepal Tibet boarder- Kathmandu –hotel
26 May 2017 Day 50: Transfer to airport for final departure
full board up to TOP (Shishapangma and Cho Oyu expedition)
Per Person USD 25,000 (minimum 2 Person for guided full board up to top)
Extra Service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 400
Mask & Regular: USD 600
Satellite phone: USD 700 per set (Personal use from climber)
Film Permit: USD 20,000 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Duty Jeep : USD 4000
Rescue Jeep : USD 700 Per Jeep