Monterosa Treks & Expedition Experience

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Full board Shishapangma and Everest expedition north face spring 2018

Shisapangma Expedition

Fixed Departure
11 April 2018

Situated at an altitude of 8027m in China’s autonomous region of Tibet, Mount Shishapangma is the 14th Highest Peak in the world.  Previously, very few people in the world were known to this mountain but when Chinese opened Tibet to western summiteers in 1978, people crowded to climb up this summit.

Route: The North West normal route to mount Shishapangma takes us up easy angled snow slopes up to 35 degrees with one steeper section. The necessary lines will be kept on the steeper or crevassed sections. After Acclimatizing in Zhangmu & Nyalam, we will drive to base camp (5000m) to make ready our final preparations and acclimatization walks. Yaks carry our expedition gear from Base camp 5000m, to ABC at 5,400m. Three further camps will be place en-route.

Camp 1 - 6,730m – After 6-7 hours trek we reach in camp 2 passing many snowy slopes by fixing ropes in the clefts.

Camp 2 - 7,045m – After 5-6 hours walk we reach camp 3 following steep ascent leading to very smooth ground below the northwest ridge.

Camp 3 - 7,400m – Summit is just 9-12 hours walk from camp 3. The situation of the groups/climbers' progress and the condition of the physical fitness, environmental condition determines further trek. Few more days may require for refreshment at different places until climbers succeeds the summit. If the climber succeeds the mountaineering early they may leave the base camp before the prescribed time as well. We move ABC to base camp of Shishapangma.

Shisapangma ExpeditionNext day we drive to Tingri (4350m) and spend night in hotel. From there, we drive on a bumpy way through grassy plain to Everest base camp 5200m, also called Chinese base camp. We have set up our camp at Everest base camp and stay two nights or more as per our member’s decision. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp and advance base camp, fixed at the different places are kept there permanently. After walking for 2 days from there, we reach to ABC 6400m along with the Yaks. From ABC, the route goes to the east Rongbuk glacier and after that there is an easy snowy slope to the North Col at 7070m, where camp 1 is situated on snow. After that there is a long angled snow slopes to climb 7900m., where camp 2 is put on the snow with mixed rock. The route from camp 2 to camp 3 is the series of the rocks, which is quite difficult. Climb ahead from camp 2 to set up camp 3 at the height of 8300m. From camp 3 to target north summit and last evening move for final summit. The route again goes through a series of rocky climbs, and then there is a median angled snow slopes where we have to climb on joint rocks and snow until we reach camp heights of 8400m. Ropes should be fixed to climb ahead. There are safety lines, which let you rest and avoid the windy environment. After this the route is mixed with rocks and snow steps. As it is steep route, you must be careful while moving ahead. After this, the North East Ridge is wider but we should climb with great care until we reach the rope fixing place through narrow steps with a little bit height.

Though little bit exposed climbing is easy to reach second steps. After the second steps the route is in the series of sometimes seem snow covered small nude ridge. A large boulder route where we should use ladder to climb ahead comes. Rope should be fixed after that section of the route. Above these steps, the route is relatively easy with plain ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not the series of ridge as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the Col before the final summit. Again there are quite steep and needed fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to step on the highest point of the earth, Mount Everest (8848m).

Mount Shishapangma south face Expedition Entry/Exit Zhangmu
11 April 2018

Itinerary:

11 April 2018 Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
12 April 2018 Day 02: Prepare expedition, apply visa for Tibet 
Tibet Shisapangma Expedition13 April 2018 Day 03: Prepare expedition & expedition briefing 
14 April 2018 Day 04: Drive Kathmandu-Zhangmu 2300m.-hotel
15 April 2018 Day 05: Drive Zhangmu to Nyalam 3750m.- hotel 
16 April 2018 Day 06: Acclimatized and day hiking uphill - hotel 
17 April 2018 Day 07: Drive Nyalam- Shishapangma B.C. - hotel
18 April 2018 Day 08: Rest in Mt. Shishapangma base camp-camp 
19 April 2018 Day 09: Preparation for base camp to ABCB - camp
20 April 2018 Day 10: Trek to Base camp to middle camp -  camp
21 April 2018 Day 11: Trek middle camp to advance B.C. – camp  
22 April – 10 May 2018 Day 12- 30: Climb Shishapangma 8027m.  
11 May 2018 Day 31: Drive base camp to Tingri 4250m. – hotel 
12 May 2018 Day 32: Drive Tingri to Everest B.C. 5200m.-camp 
13 May 2018 Day 33:  Rest day Everest base camp 5200m.-camp 
14 May 2018 Day 34: Everest base camp to middle camp –camp 
15 May 2018 Day 35: Middle - ABC of Everest 6400m. –  camp
16 – 31 May 2018 Day 36- 51: Climb Period for Everest 8848m. 
01 June 2018 Day 52: From ABC - Everest base camp-camp 
02 June 2018 Day 53: Drive Everest BC to Zhangmu – hotel 
03 June 2018 Day 54: Drive Zhangmu to Kathmandu – hotel
04 June 2018 Day 55: Free day in Kathmandu, Nepal – hotel 
05 June 2018 Day 56: Transfer to airport for final departure

The Cost: Permit join basis

Per person USD 35,500 full board guide service till to Summit

Personal Bio Data Tibet Visa Form 1 Tibet Visa Form 2

Cost Includes

  • 4 nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Nepali expedition staff: ABC guide, cook, kitchen boy-ABC
  • Shisapangma TibetTibet visa, travel permit for expedition climber & Nepali staff
  • Full meals: Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri-breakfast, lunch, dinner
  • All accommodation hotels Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri in Tibet
  • Base camp - advance base camp 1 tent for 1 person climber
  • Dining ,toilet, shower, store tent, kitchen tent, table and chair
  • Per person 50kg load is base camp to advanced B.C. by yak
  • Per person 40kg advanced base C. to base camp carry by yak
  • Kathmandu – Nepal Tibet boarder – Kathmandu by tourist bus
  • Tibet boarder-Everest base camp-Nepal Tibet boarder by jeep
  • Climbing permit for Shishapangma & Everest 88845m.north side  
  • Liaison officer and Interpreter for expedition from CTMA Tibet
  • Life and medical insurance for professional Nepali ABC staff
  • 1 climbing Sherpa guide till to (Shishapangma + North Everest)
  • 3 high tents north face or similar brand climbing - camp 1,2,3
  • 5 Oxygen bottle(20litters) each climber for Everest expedition
  •  3 Oxygen bottles for Sherpa climbing guide Everest expedition
  • Mask - regulator for climbing member & climbing Sherpa guide
  • Caring bonus for  climbing guide from ABC to camp 3 - Everest
  • Solar panel for light and battery charge at base camp to ABC
  • Gas heater for heating at ABC for group use in side dining tent
  • Climbing food, cooking gas and stove for cooking above ABC
  • Satellite phone (pay call) pay per minute system call world wide
  • Welcome dinner with Nepali songs and dance in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • Tibet ShisapangmaLunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Entry visa and re-entry visa for Nepal.
  • Personal expenses for expedition  
  • Medical & rescue insurance- climber
  • Personal climbing equipment-member
  • Bar, beverage bills, permit- walkie-talkie
  • Summit bonus for guide USD 1000 +500
  • Tips for base camp and ABC staff

Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 350 (re-fill)
Mask & Regulator:
USD 500 (re-use)

  • Shisapangma Expedition
  • Shisapangma Expedition
  • shishapangma expedition
  • Shisapangma Expedition
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