Monterosa Treks & Expedition Experience

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Tibet Expedition

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Peak Climbing in Nepal

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Full Board

Mt. Changtse 7550m. Expedition spring 2018 (Tibet)

changtse-expedition

Fixed Departure
16 April 2018

The first ascent of Changtse was unofficially made on October 3, 1982 by Johan Takes of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing Everest from the north side. However, Takes climbed Changtse without a permit.

Again in 1982, the first official ascent of Changtse was completed only11 days later on October 14 by five members of a German Expedition, Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hosle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometer-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier.

In 1983 another first one man ascent was made by a Chilean climber, Gino Casassa on May 14, 1983 via the same route used by the Germans.

Changtse  ExpeditionIn 1986, Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition. This expedition of eight Japanese and 16 Chinese reached the summit on May 10, 11- 1986 via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier; which included the first ascent by a woman, Mrs. Gunsung.1986 American climber Ed Webster made the first one man ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on August 28, 1986. Most of this climb was done at night, taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions.

 In 1987 two Australian climbers Rob Turner and Glen Nash reached the summit on September 29 via the north face ice wall (Japanese 1986 route) despite high winds.

Description
Changtse is located adjacent to the north of Everest, hence the name Changtse which in Tibetan means north peak. Two other well-known peaks of the Everest-group; Lhotse (4th highest mountain in world) and Nuptse mean respectively south- and west-peak. Changtse was first ascended in October 1982 officially by a German expedition but actually it had already been climbed by the Dutch climber Johan Taks; only 11 days before. I bet the Germans must have thought the peak was still virgin. Taks was a member of the 1982 Dutch Everest-expedition (Tibetan side; east Rongbuk), and climbed the mountain apparently without a permit against the will of the other expedition members. Nowadays the mountain receives little attention; only 1 or 2 (Chinese) additional expeditions have been listed.

Mount Changtse Expedition Entry/Exit Zhangmu
16 April 2018

Way to Lhakpa RiItinerary

16 April 2018 Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
17 April 2018 Day 02: Prepare expedition and apply Tibet visa
18 April 2018 Day 03: Preparing expedition, expedition briefing
19 April 2018 Day 04: Drive KTM to Zhangmu 2300m.- hotel
20 April 2018 Day 05: Drive Zhagnmu to Nyalam 3750m.-hotel
21 April 2018 Day 06: Acclimatization, day hiking uphill- hotel
22 April 2018 Day 07: Drive Nyalam to Tingri 4250meter- hotel
23 April 2018 Day 08: Acclimatization, day hiking uphill- hotel
24 April 2018 Day 09: Drive to Changtse BC 5200m. – camping
25 April 2018 Day 10: Rest and prepare yak for ABC - camping
26 April 2018 Day 11: Base camp-middle camp 5400m.-camping
27 April 2018 Day 12: Middle camp-ABC 5700meter- camping
28 April- 15 May 2018 Day 13-30: Climbing Mt. Changtse 7550m.
16 May 2018 Day 31: From Advance B.C. - base camp - camp
17 May 2018 Day 32: Drive base camp to Zhangmu -hotel
18 May 2018 Day 33: Drive Zhagnmu to Kathmanduhotel
19 May 2018 Day 34: Free day in Kathmandu, Nepal – hotel
20 May 2018 Day 35: Transfer to airport for final departure

Cost: Group size minimum 6 person or more

Basic package per person USD 14,000
Climbing guide is USD 5500 (If required)

Trekker, if join with expedition team till to BC to ABC
Base camp and ABC member USD 4000 per person
(Maximum 15 days in Tibet) USD 3000 per person

Personal Bio Data Tibet Visa Form 1 Tibet Visa Form 2

Cost Includes

  • Lhakpa Ri Base camp4 Nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Nepalese expedition staff: ABC guide, cook, cook helper
  •  Dining, shower, toilet tent, kitchen equipment, table, chair
    Tibet visa, travel permit for expedition climber, ABC staff
  • Meals; Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri - breakfast, lunch, dinner
  • All accommodations in Zhangmu, Nyalam, Tingri in Tibet
  • Base camp & ABC 1 tent for 1 person north face or similar
  • Per person 30kg load is carry by yak from base camp–ABC
  • Per person 20kg load is carry by yak from ABC-base camp
  • Kathmandu- Nepal Tibet boarder-Kathmandu by tourist bus
  • Transfer Zhangmu-Changtse base camp-Zhangmu by Jeep
  • Truck for expedition equipment, food & Nepali staff caring
  • Climbing permit for mount Changtse 7550m. in Tibet side
  • Liaison officer & Interpreter for expedition from CTMA Tibet
  • Life, medical insurance for professional Nepali ABC staff
  • Oxygen, mask - regulator for emergency use (if use pay it)
  • Extra load of expedition and pay all climber sharing basis
  • Satellite phone (pay call) per minute system for worldwide 
  • Welcome dinner with Nepali songs and dance Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • Lhakpa Ri Base CampLunch and dinner in Kathmandu
  • Laundry, phone calls, personal nature
  • Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal
  • Personal climbing equipment climbing
  • Bar & beverage bills, personal expenses
  • Medicine and first aid expenses, rescue  
  • Permit of Walkie-Talkie for expedition
  • Extra yak, 1 yak USD 200, carry 40kg

Extra Service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: USD 350 (re-use)
Mask & Regulator: USD 500 (re-use)
Satellite phone permit: USD 1500 per se

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