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Peak Climbing in Nepal


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Mount Makalu Expedition spring 2018

Makalu Expedition

Mount Makalu Expedition; It was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed Mt. Makalu on the 1951. Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition.

The first attempt on mount Makalu was made in 1954 by a US team, mostly from California, who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time, a British team approached the mountain, but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated.

In the autumn of 1954 a French team attempted the peak once more. In the following spring, successful ascents were made by three teams of French climbers on successive days. The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav reached the summit in 1975.

MMakalu West Face
It is a very adventurous route to climb because it is challenging too. Five attempts had already been made before successfully climbing mount Makalu. The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian team had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe."

The Routes (Four Parts)
Bottom part of the route starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7400 meters in height. The final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till to the top of the summit.

Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations.

The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.

The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Mount Makalu ExpeditionExit / Entry Tumlingtar
Fixed departure
04 April 2018

04 April 2018 Day 01: Arrival in  Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
05 April 2018 Day 02: Preparing expedition Kathmandu, Nepal
06 April 2018 Day 03: Expedition  briefing tourism  Department
07 April 2018 Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar and drive Num & camp
08 April 2018 Day 05: From Num to trekking Siduwa and camp
09 April 2018 Day 06: From Siduwa to trek Tashi goan & camp
10 April 2018 Day 07: From Tashi village - Khumdanda & camp
11 April 2018 Day 08: From Khumdanda-Tashidongma & camp
12 April 2018 Day 09: From-Tashidongma-Yangle Kharka camp
13 April 2018 Day 10: From Yangle Kharka - Yak Kharka -camp
14 April 2018 Day 11: Yak Kharka to Makalu base camp - camp
15 April - 16 May2018 Day 12 - 43: Climbing mt. Makalu 8463m.
17 May 2018 Day 44: From Makalu BC - Yangle Khark - camp
18 May 2018 Day 45: From Yangle Khark-Tashidongma - camp
19 May 2018 Day 46: Tashidongma - Khongma Danda - camp
20 May 2018 Day 47: From Khongma Danda to Num and camp
21 May 2018 Day 48: Drive num to Tumlingtar and guest house
22 May 2018 Day 49: Fly  to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
23 May 2018 Day 50: Transfer hotel to airport - final departure

2 Persons, Per Person USD 14500
3 Persons, Per Person USD 12000
4 Persons, Per Person USD 1000
5 Persons, Per Person USD 9500
6-7 Persons, Per Person USD 9000
8-12 Persons, Per Person USD 8500
13-15 Persons, Per Person USD 8000
Climbing Sherpa guide USD 3500

Personal Bio Data Permit Application Form Expedition Registration/Booking Form

Cost Includes

  • M4 Nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Climbing permit for Mount Makalu 8463meter normal route  
  • KTM- Tumlingtagar - Kath. flight with 40kg cargo 1 climber
  • Trekking ; Num,  Makalu B.C. with full board camping trek   
  • 1 North face tent / similar 1 climber  Mt. Lhotse base camp
  • Makalu base camp guide, Cook, cook  helper , kitchen boy
  • Dining tent, shower tent, toilet  tent, table  and chair in B. C.
  • Porter Num-Tashi goan -Makalu base  camp & Num village
  • Life-medical- rescue insurance - Nepali staff, liaison officer 
  • Expedition allowance  liaison office, Nepali staff
  • Solar panel for charging batteries, lights Makalu base camp
  • Caring  bonus  for climbing  guide (base camp to till camp 3)
  • Airport – hotel-airport 2 times transfer in Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Welcome dinner Nepali with song and dance in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • Personal  equipment climbing
  • Emergency rescue evacuation
  • Climbing  food, gas  above BC
  • Lunch &  dinner in Kathmandu
  • Tips(tipping) for staff
  • Personal  expenses
  • Summit bonus for climbing guide
  • Radio Permit, walki talkie permit 
  • Garbage deposit USD 3000 (sharing of the total person) and deposit fee will be not
    refunded if the climbers don’t take back their garbage to base camp & Kathmandu.
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