Monterosa Treks & Expedition Experience

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International Makalu Expedition autumn 2017

Makalu Expedition


In 1955, French team climbed Mount Makalu for the first time. The British Everest reconnaissance mapped and photographed the peak from the Tibetan Side for the first time in 1921. Hillary and Shipton photographed Mt. Makalu in 1951. After one year, Hillary and others approached the peak after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition. A US team, mostly from California, who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar made the first attempt on Mount Makalu in 1954. A British team approached the mountain at the same time but this expedition was abandoned when Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated. A French team attempted the peak once more in the autumn of 1954. Three teams of French climbers made the successful attempt on successive days of spring. The Japanese conquered mount Makalu in 1970, another French team climbed it in 1971 and a Yugoslav expedition step on the summit in 1975.

Makalu ExpeditonMakalu West Face; Makalu West face is one of the adventurous and challenging trekking. Five attempts had already been made before successfully steeping on the summit of mount Makalu. The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had followed the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and step on the top on 21st of May following the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had reached on the top of mount Makalu at this time.  They were awarded the "Gold ice-axe” for this ascent.

The Routes (Four Parts);  Bottom part of the route begins from the base of the West Face at an altitude of 5,800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6100 meters height to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters altitude. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep extending up to 7400 meters. The final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, leading to the west ridge at 8,000 meters height till atop. Ropes are typically fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500 m to 7500m. There were Camps established by the Russian Team in the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line which is never attempted. It is strenuous with very steep pillar which was first successfully climbed in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the Seignior Wall area. The first US team to climb it was in 1980. They scaled via West Pillar Route. The team included Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski, who topped the summit even without using oxygen or Sherpa support.

Mount Makalu Expedition Entry/Exit Tumlingtar
02 September 2017

Itinerary:

30 Aug.  2017 Day 01: Arrival in  Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
31 Aug.  2017 Day 02: Preparing expedition Kathmandu, Nepal
01 Sept. 2017 Day 03: Expedition  briefing tourism  Department
02 Sept. 2017 Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar and drive Num & camp
03 Sept. 2017 Day 05: From Num to trekking Siduwa and camp
04 Sept. 2017 Day 06: From Siduwa to trek Tashi goan & camp
05 Sept. 2017 Day 07: From Tashi village - Khumdanda & camp
06 Sept. 2017 Day 08: From Khumdanda-Tashidongma & camp
07 Sept. 2017 Day 09: From-Tashidongma-Yangle Kharka camp
08 Sept. 2017 Day 10: From Yangle Kharka - Yak Kharka -camp
09 Sept. 2017 Day 11: Yak Kharka to Makalu base camp - camp
10 Sept. – 11 Oct. 2017 Day 12 - 43: Climbing mt. Makalu 8463m.
12 Oct. 2017 Day 44: From Makalu BC - Yangle Khark - camp
13 Oct. 2017 Day 45: From Yangle Khark-Tashidongma - camp
14 Oct. 2017 Day 46: Tashidongma - Khongma Danda - camp
15 Oct. 2017 Day 47: From Khongma Danda to Num & camp
16 Oct. 2017 Day 48: Drive num to Tumlingtar & guest house
17 Oct. 2017 Day 49: Fly  to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel
18 Oct. 2017 Day 50: Transfer hotel to airport - final departure

Cost:

Makalu Expedition2 Persons, Per Person USD 14500
3 Persons, Per Person USD 12000
4 Persons, Per Person USD 1000
5 Persons, Per Person USD 9500
6-7 Persons, Per Person USD 9000
8-12 Persons, Per Person USD 8500
13-15 Persons, Per Person USD 8000
Climbing Sherpa guide USD 3500

Personal Bio Data Permit Application Form Expedition Registration/Booking Form

Cost Includes

  • M4 Nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Climbing permit for Mount Makalu 8463meter normal route  
  • KTM- Tumlingtagar - Kath. flight with 40kg cargo 1 climber
  • Trekking ; Num,  Makalu B.C. with full board camping trek   
  • 1 North face tent / similar 1 climber  Mt. Lhotse base camp
  • Makalu base camp guide, Cook, cook  helper , kitchen boy
  • Dining tent, shower tent, toilet  tent, table  and chair in B. C.
  • Porter Num-Tashi goan -Makalu base  camp & Num village
  • Life-medical- rescue insurance - Nepali staff, liaison officer 
  • Expedition allowance  liaison office, expedition Nepali staff
  • Solar panel for charging batteries, lights Makalu base camp
  • Caring  bonus  for climbing  guide (base camp to till camp 3)
  • Airport – hotel-airport 2 times transfer in Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Welcome dinner Nepali with song and dance in Kathmandu

Cost Excludes

  • Personal  equipment climbing
  • Emergency rescue evacuation
  • Climbing  food, gas  above BC
  • Lunch &  dinner in Kathmandu
  • Tips(tipping) for expedition staff
  • Personal  expenses  expedition
  • Summit bonus for climbing guide
  • Radio Permit, walki talkie permit 
  • Garbage deposit USD 3000 (sharing of the total person) and deposit  fee will be not
    refunded if the climbers don’t take back their garbage to base camp & Kathmandu.
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